Friday, 25 October 2013

VFX Seminar - DSLR

Unfortunately I missed this induction, however since the beginning of my time filming and creating videos I have worked with a DSLR; specifically a Canon 550D. Though I still thought it useful to go an ask for a quick reiteration of what was taught in the seminar. This is what I learnt.

Pros of a shooting with DSLR

Firstly and most obviously, how easy it is to move one around. You can carry it in your hand or round your neck with a strap. If you have no transport it's no problem because it weighs and isn't taxing on your body. Most of the time they a ready set up for some kind of filming, of course if you want to get the best results you are going to change one or two things prior to filming. There is also the ease of lenses and the variety they come in, not to mention the amount of attachments that can go with these, the possibilities are endless.

Cons of a shooting with DSLR

So far the biggest amount of time possibly to record with is 30 minutes, now traditionally shooting a short film or even a movie this isn't a problem. Unless there is a specific 'one take' style movie you are going for then no scene will last this long. However there is the problem of events when you want to get a full montage of the whole thing, unless you are there to press it every 30 minutes it won't work. If you want it to be a very steady shot you usually have to have a tripod or something kind of mount that can be annoying to carry around.

A Simple Set Up

For a simple shoot and quick use setting. Each Bold is a header option on the Canon 5D MIII, except for the first which are options physically on the camera.

Manual Mode

  • Make Sure Lens Is On
  • Make Sure Stabiliser Is On
Shoot 1
  • Image Quality Set to 'Raw - JPEG Large' 
Shoot 4
  • 'AF (Auto Focus)' Set To Live Mode
  • Turn on 'Grid for Frame Shooting' if you want it.
  • 'Movie Record Size' Set To 1920 x 1080 / 25FPS
  • Set 'Sound Recording' To Auto
  • You also have the option to record at 50FPS at a loss of quality so you can then revert back to 25FPS and have a slow motion piece of footage.

Set Up 1
  • 'Format Card' - ensure that all previous data is saved and then erased from the card.

Set Up 2
  • 'Auto Power Off' - Normally will shut down after a few minutes of inactivity.
  • 'Brightness' - You can change this to save battery, or go full power if you're shooting a bright area.
Set Up 3
  • 'Video System' - Go PAL. NTSC is American if you ever need it for 30FPS filming.
C.Fn2 Display Operation
  • 'Custom Controls' - This can be used to macro different buttons to others. The most common change is changing the zoom button the middle of the wheel when in active film mode, especially if you are right handed.
Options To Note
  • Shutter Speed Starts at 50
  • Aperture Starts at F4.0
  • ISO Starts At 100
To Finish

It's very rare you have these all set to their lowest options at the same time. These are all going to change depending on your location, lighting and personal style. Usually you will crank the ISO up a little to give your self some breathing room with Shutter Speed and Aperture, it's normal light conditions I wouldn't recommend going over 800 as this is where you start to see noise. In other situation where this is not possible because it's just too dark try not to go over 2000 ISO or it will start to become very grainy and that's not what you want. 

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